IVA Recommendations
The IVA man picked up on a couple of issues that were not a fail but he recommended looking at, in no particular order:
- Drivers side front brake hose - slight chafing on full lock. He stuck some temporary padding to get me home, however, I suspect the hose simply needs moving round slightly. The passenger side is fine and the drivers side failed first time as it was kinked. I suspect I was simply too enthusiastic when unkinking, should be easy to sort.
- Brake master cylinder washers -
there are no washers behind the bolts attaching the master cylinder to chassis, easy fix and what he says makes sense.<< done - Spacers on brake pipes offside gearbox area - hmmmm, this one will be an absolute bugger to get to! I need to think about this and he did suggest some simple padding between the brake pipes will be fine.
- Additional infill between passenger lower and upper dash - there is a small space between my lower and upper dash. No biggie but a suggestion was to try and fill this gap in. I'm going to leave this one to be honest unless I decide to take the dash out at some point in the future.
- Additional fixings for throttle cable
- the cable passes above the driver side wishbone, it needs some sticky pad cable tie holders (which I already have) attaching to it. Quick fix and stops any premature wear and tear.<< done
The interesting and fun list
This is a more interesting list and my thoughts over the last few days, again in no particular order:
- Wind deflectors - it gets windy driving the car, I am not really that bothered but if I am going to get the wife out I think I'll need to make it a little more comfortable. Reading on a few other blogs it seems like wind deflectors make a significant difference and they sound like an interesting piece of work.
- Engine Cooling - examiner commented the engine seemed a little hot. I am not sure if its his experience or actually an issue, certainly from what I read the Zetec runs hot. None the less I am going to consider some bonnet vents\louvres. Louvres seem more of a DIY thing I can tackle at home but will need some careful research to make sure I get the right look and effect.
Another suggestion he had in this area was a double size radiator and I see GBS sell an ATR one, there are reviews stating a significant decrease in temperature but they aren't cheap. I will only investigate this further if cooling becomes a problem. - Steering Wheel -
I must replace the god awful sierra wheel! Its massive and makes getting in and out difficult and after a while your legs ache. I have already purchased the wheel and have a boss, I need the adapter kit for the two though. Now the question is, do I go quick release? I think I will. << done - Immobilizer -
a few people have mentioned this to me and I had disregarded it till now. My thoughts were well if someone wants to steal it they will stick it on a low loader, however, an immobilizer is cheap to buy and will be interesting to fit. CBS do a Thatcham 2 for £60 and it comes with a nice visual deterrent near the lock barrel in the form of a flashing red light. It will be difficult for someone to bypass but possible, with significant effort. I figure though if I go with quick release steering wheel + immobilizer it will put most people off.<< done - Map switch - something I may delay until I speak to emerald. I need to book a RR session once on the road, I do like the idea of a map selection switch from Eco and Power.
- Front indicator extensions -
I will be removing the awful extensions, they look stupid.<< done - Geometry setup - I am thinking of asking GBS to do this for me; the are the pros.
- Wet weather gear -
GBS do a kit but its pricey, at over £600 it includes the doors and to be honest I am not interested in them. All I want is something to keep me dry should I get caught out, I don't mind getting a little wet. Soft Bits For Sevens do a kit which is really tidy and will make putting up a cover a doddle, its also half the price. I will definitely be getting in touch with them.<< done - Fuel Sender -
this one is to be decided once I do some driving. The gauge and sender are matched but the float isn't right, I have fiddled about and managed to get a more accurate reading. If it still doesn't work correctly (it wasn't registering above half full) then I will look at some alternatives from CBS, namely a pole fuel sender. They look more reliable and sensible to me - but I need to match the resistance to gauge. << done (seems good enough and registers empty to full) - Speedo sender bracket - I know the pulses are right as it passed, however it was a right faff on to get working reliable at the test. In the end the examiner and I ended up taking some tin snips to the bracket and forcing it to the right angle. It worked, however, it looks a mess - now is that a problem? I don't know but I certainly need to at least investigate. My thoughts are to reverse the rivnuts round so I can easily remove the bracket - at the moment it is pretty impossible to get a spanner in.
- Cold air feed - now this isn't mentioned much so I will need to do more research. I can't help but think there is a whole load of heat soak going on, maybe it is only a potential problem when stuck in traffic as I can assume there is a lot of air flow when the car is moving. I can see the logic of a ram air feed (plus it looks nice from the front) and something like a pipercross viper cone filter.
The viper is fully enclosed to help with heat soak and if I can supply it with a fresh air feed - perfect, its almost straight line from the nose cone. When driving to the test centre I got stuck in a lot of traffic and the car seemed to hunt a little at low speed, could be the map but I did think it will be sucking in some very hot air! - High pressure fuel pump mount - I noticed the fuel pump is only mounted via one of the exhaust clamps, it is just touching the bottom one. It will probably be fine however it will not take long to move it down slightly and ensure it is fixed to both.
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